To Bocca di Lupo for lunch. We sit at the counter so we can observe the chefs in action. It’s really very simple: superb ingredients, usually already prepared, and just a few minutes on the range or the grill. Or – in the case of the salads – sliced, chopped, mixed and served. Thinly sliced black radish and celeriac , pomegranate seeds, slivers of pecorino, green olive oil and the merest breath of truffle oil make for a delicious composition. Mushroom risotto has a depth of flavor I have yet to achieve. Duck ragu with pappardelle is easier to fathom: gorgeous, yellow pasta married with a rich, dark sauce. Finally, a piece of pork from the grill with a texture and flavor that is henceforth the benchmark for grilled pork. All this is accompanied by a couple of glasses of a primitivo full of warmth and depth. Desserts?
Just across the street to Gelupo, the sister gelateria, for a small helping of ice cream. We opt for a startlingly minty mint and bonet, combining the flavours of a Tuscan dessert: chocolate, coffee, rum, egg yolk and crushed amaretti. (The Bocca di Lupo cookbook has a recipe for the dessert but not the ice; fortunately, Elizabeth David has almost an identical recipe in ‘Is there a nutmeg in the house?’ – Michael Joseph 2000 – on p.281.)
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